Pantoll Ranger Station to
Stinson Beach Loop

via Matt Davis, Dipsea, and Steep Ravine Trails

Mount Tamalpais State Park &
Golden Gate National Recreation Area

Marin County, San Francisco Bay Area, California

trip stats:

• · distance: ~ 7 miles roundtrip
• · elevation hi/lo: ~1500 ft. to sea level
• · total ups & downs: ~ 2000 ft.
• · trailhead: Pantoll Ranger Station, Panoramic Highway
  · at Pantoll Road. (water and restrooms available)
• · map to trailhead: 37°54'15" N, 122°36'15" W
• · fee: $6.00 parking; limited free parking on Pantoll Road
• · lunch: Parkside Cafe (at Stinson Beach)

With clear, warm (but not too warm) weather in the forecast, my hiking friend Mary and I decided to tackle this nice loop hike down to Stinson Beach from the Pantoll Ranger Station in "Mount Tam" State Park. We traveled via Matt Davis Trail, down to Stinson Beach where we had lunch, and then climbed 1,500 ft back up via the Dipsea and Steep Ravine Trails. This hike featured almost everything a hiker could want: sweeping views of the coastline, mixed evergreen forest, redwood trees, oak woodland and grassland, streams, waterfalls, wildflowers, wildlife, a sandy beach, cute lifeguards, cool drinks, and a hot lunch.

Being a summer Saturday, the free side-of-the-road parking on Pantoll Road was full, so we had to cough up the 6 bucks per car to park in the ranger lot. I grabbed a free official park map to compliment my home-printed topographic map and gathered all of my day-hiking gear while Mary patiently waited without noticeably rolling her eyes. (People always look at me funny on day hikes because I always carry the "10 essentials" plus my gps, digital camera, and trekking poles while wearing my "convertible" cargo pants, backpacking boots, nylon "rip stop" shirt with "pit zips", polarized sunglasses and cowboy hat...I'm sure they think I'm an over-cautious, over-packed, geeked-out, gadget-freak nut job...which I am.)

To reach the trailhead from the ranger parking lot, we very carefully crossed Panoramic Highway just west of the Pantoll Road turnoff trying not to get splattered by speeding convertible Porsche Boxters or self-important Land Rover SUV drivers and climbed the small wooden steps signed for Matt Davis Trail and Coastal Trail. For the first mile Matt Davis follows the contour of the mountainside with very slight and gentle ups and downs. We passed alternately through open oak grassland with spectacular views of the ocean and cool, mixed evergreen forest. Eventually, we started heading downhill reaching a bunch of switchbacks in a shaded canyon. About halfway down those switchbacks, we hit a spur trail for Table Rock with views of lengthy, sandy Stinson Beach and Duxbury Point in the distance. We crossed a couple of bridges that in winter and spring would span full bubbling creeks but were mostly now dry in June.

Blooming wildflowers still graced Matt Davis trail even though this has been a dry year for California. Some of the ones I was able to identify were: fragrant California Buckeye, Crimson Columbine, not-really-a-grass-but-an-iris Blue-eyed Grass, purple Lupine, Huckleberry, Western Morning Glory, Trail Plant, bright orange Sticky Monkey Flower and California Poppy, and non-native Forget-me-nots (which I managed to forget one time and a California Native Plant Society lady who was weeding them from the side of a trail scoffed at me when asked her to remind me what it was.). Some plants I was not sure about included some ripe berries (possibly Salmon Berries) and a purple, spiky thistle (possibly Wild Artichoke?).

When we got near the bottom of the trail, the rich smoke of barbequed hamburgers taunted us and made our stomachs growl. Following that delicious smell, we hit the little town of Stinson Beach and turned left on Belvedere Avenue wondering past the fire department, carefully crossed Highway 1, turned left, and then a right on Arenal Avenue to head toward the Parkside Cafe. After scarfing down our lunch, we decided to head next door to the Parkside Snack Bar and order a chocolate milkshake for dessert to drink on the beach and relax in the sun.

Unfortunately, the wind was howling and even though we picked a spot on the beach with a nice view of the lifeguards, sand was flying in our eyes, noses, and milkshakes (which wasn't a total loss because they were the most watered down, wimpy chocolate milkshakes we've ever had.). That's when I noticed I had a hitchhiking moth that would not leave my arm to save it's life. We decided that the sandblasting wasn't any fun, cute lifeguards or no. I got rid of my hitchhiker on a bush, and we headed for the Dipsea Trail.

The Dipsea starts near the intersection of Panoramic Highway and Highway 1. The start of the trail travels through some wooded chaparral and a small riparian section with sword ferns and then heads upward through a hot grassy foothill with gorgeous views behind you of the ocean, coastline, and Bolinas. After a little over a mile we hit a fork and stayed to the left to hook up with Steep Ravine Trail.

Steep Ravine is exactly what the name implies, but it was shaded by tall redwood trees, and cool, meandering back and forth over Webb Creek. The only drag about this trail was the highway noise, as Panoramic Highway travels on the north side of the ravine. About half way up, we hit a ten foot wooden ladder that was no big deal in dry weather, but I imagine very slippery when wet. Nearing the top, the trail pulled away from Webb Creek and climbed even more with switchbacks that seemed to never end, but eventually relief came oddly in the form of a parking lot. With aching legs we said our goodbyes to the forest and headed back to the urban jungle.